Observations

I am sitting on the grass along Paseo Recoleta, leaning against a lamppost and eating em- panadas from San Jose's (my mom's dis- covery back in Nov- ember, and still the best em- panadas I've had to date.) I feel very Ferdinand the Bull, except Ferdinand sat quietly under a cork tree to smell flowers, and I sit quietly under a lamppost to admire urban landscape. Trees statues swing-sets cars grass taxis monuments signs buildings.

A few observations:

1. Cleaning up after your pet is not an Argentine concept.
2. Empanadas are supposed to be eaten with your hands. [And yet at Los Maestros they provide you with a knife and fork and never chastise me for using them]
3. It is always acceptable to wear sunglasses inside.
   
4. Laying out in public parks is the only way to do it (unless you have a 12th floor terrace like our neighbors Pedro and Augustin.)
5. There will always be traffic on Av. Libertador, even at 5:30 am.
6. Ben and I saw someone driving his Porsche Boxter down Parana in our neighborhood. That was the dumbest purchase ever made (since cars are so expensive here and don't depreciate in value until a full ten years have passed.)
   
7. Graffiti here is so commonplace that national historic monuments and government buildings have signs that ask you not to leave your mark on them.
8. At midday coffee today, I saw a man pour about 1/2 teaspoon of salt on each bite of his buttered roll. He was wearing a khaki safari vest over his plaid shirt. His wife's thinning hair was dyed jet black. They split a bottle of Malbec. At noon. Apparently this is acceptable.
   
9. Public schoolchildren wear white or blue smocks over their regular clothes here, so when you see them walking about (usually between 12:00 - 13:00 for lunch; then between 16:00 - 17:00 after class) they look like a bunch of mini-chemists. Private school students wear uniforms.
10. Going on a date with your neighbor's friend is probably not a good idea.
11. And-- may I remind you these are observations, not necessarily first-hand experience-- it is perfectly acceptable to make out: on park benches, in line to buy your movie ticket (last night at Village Recoleta we saw Muerte en un Funeral, I recommend it), on street corners, in front of a church on its front steps (always appropriate), in public restrooms (especially on Gay Night), on the dance floor, on the bus (or "boat bus" in El Tigre), but not - I repeat not - in the seating areas of the clubs [I've been told they will shine a flashlight at you and kick you out.]
    
12. There are so many Italian dual-citizens here, that Italian politicians advertise on billboards in Buenos Aires. Apparently this is the same with Spanish (Spain) elections, but I am not familiar with international political schedules. [Although here, people are well-aware of the upcoming election and like to ask me if "el negro" is going to win. I tell them I hope so.]
13. Nuns wear sandals. Somehow I find this comical.
14. You can pretty much wear whatever you want here (in this weather), as long as it's not a casual t-shirt and running shoes. People walk by in groups, pairs of friends talking. One will wear a wool cap, long sleeves, jeans and close-toed shoes. The other wears a plain white t-shirt, pants and flip-flops. Scarves may be worn with tank tops. And although we are approaching fall, very lovely ladies from Recoleta are dressed in bright white from head to toe. The rules don't apply here.

I remember when I was little learning about the seasons. Summer with the starburst sun wearing black shades and a huge grin. Winter snowmen. Spring flowers. Fall leaves.
"What about Australia?"
I asked my teacher, "Do they call their seasons different names? Is the cold weather called summer since it is June through August? Do they call Autumn 'Spring'?"
My teacher didn't know. But now I know. There are a lot of things teachers can't teach you.